I continued on to San Christobal with Harry and Darcy. Despite the cold (not as nice a respite from the humidity of Palenque as we had hoped, it was too cold), I really loved returning to San Christobal. It’s the most wonderful town, small but busy, one that I could definitely see myself settling in – with a obvious creative and cultural tilt, good food, Indigenous culture and political history, nestled among beautiful mountains.
I ran into two friends from Villadolid (who I am now with, in Puerto Escondido), and we caught up with old and new friends over tapas and wine at a beautiful wine bar. I loved San Christobal for its bar culture – it flows out onto the pedestrian streets despite the bitter chill. Also, wine – which has been so rare in other parts of Mexico – is available!
We booked a horse ride to a nearby indigenous town on our second day in San Christobal – a mistake. We were distraught to arrive to badly treated, unhappy horses – their tails ripped from their use as leads for other horses, caterpillar style, their hoofs well worn from hundreds of trips on hard concrete. Although we went through with it, the horse riding was not overly enjoyable – a trek through concrete roads with the odd farmland stint to arrive at a tiny, grey, town. Made me appreciate the humane standards of other horse rides I have taken in New Zealand, though.
We made the trip out to Las Grutas de San Christobal, which was lovely. A small forested area just off the highway, we ate quesadillas at a local cantina and walked through a huge, beautiful, cave. Although not filled with water, the dark froze you too the bones. We were lead along a concreted path through the cave, lights illuminating particularly beautiful rock formations and stalactites and stalagmites.